Friday, July 31, 2009
A Quick Note
Well, right now, I'm sitting in the bar and drinking a Troegs Jolly Scot. It's brewed in Harrisburg, which is not too far from here. Two days ago, we spent a couple of nights in Carlisle, PA. You might say that we are spending a lot of time in hotels at this juncture in our trip. If you are asking that, I say, "screw you." But I say it with love, of course. Well, today we walked across the halfway point in our trip, 320/640 miles to Massachusetts. We've climbed numerous mountains, we've walked through a few corn fields, we've hitch hiked on busy highways. We're tired. I'll tell you--it has been really nice to hike short, 7-mile days and stay in a four-walled structure, eat a nice meal, and drink some good beer. I think we've earned it. From this point, there aren't such amenities for more than a week, so we cannot even be tempted. Hopefully our food supply will last. That would be awesome.
I've been thinking while walking that there is SO much that we need to blog about. We have to amend the normal format of the blog to tell you about these people we've met and the places we've been. The bar has to move the computer to make room for the guitar player, but you should stay tuned for such stories as:
-The fake-haired, fake-contact, stupid (but really nice) girl
-The men and their Ham-MOCKs (they say things funny in these parts)
-TortoiseRear the smartest man in the world (renown historian, poet, scientist, philosopher, and divorcee) "Do you know the story of Homer's Aeneid?" [sic]
-Wrath, the warrior of Jupiter who roams the Earth killing the dark forces when he sees the "star."
-Enterprise Rent-a-car. They'll pick you up (if you ask nicely)
-Hiker's Welcome. But don't walk here.
Oh the things we've experienced!
: )
Sunday, July 19, 2009
Cheeseburgers and the trail
Well, these Waysides are close to car campgrounds and RV parks. As we walked in, we became part of the attraction. People came up to talk to us.
Well, we couldn't restock on anything, but I did have an expensive cheeseburger, and Hannah had a BLT. They were amazing! The only problem about the high prices in the park is they know that hungry hikers will pay them. Bastards.
Our next stop was a few days later at Big Meadows Wayside. This was a much larger place with waitresses and such. It was entertaining listening to the conversations of all the people, which were strangely unique to us after being in the woods. Here are some highlights:
This hiker and his dog Blue were sitting outside the restaurant. At the table next to us, an older man looked past us to him, "Oh look! It's a backpacker! I haven't seen one of them in ages." At the table behind us were sitting the most uncreative people in the universe:
"Oooh, look at me! I'm a hiker. I'm looking at my maps!!"
Brilliant.
Anyway, even after hiking, I had a pretty bad, though expensive meal. I ordered fried chicken, french fries, and cole slaw. I got friend chicken, mashed potatoes, canned green beans, and a biscuit that was burned in the center. Hannah had a Philly Cheese Steak and a milkshake. It looked yummy. She has good taste.
A third stop for breakfast had the staff tell us at 10:44 that they were sorry, but they stopped serving breakfast at 11:00 and couldn't serve us. If my math is correct, there was something wrong with that equation. Oh well. I was able to get some coffee, and it was the best tasting coffee that I've ever had. We also shared a banana. It was the first fruit that we had in more than a week.
Now that we are out of the park, things are a little different. Food has to be rationed a little more carefully. There is only a town here and there, and sometimes it's a 5 mile walk to the grocery store away from the trail. Now that our training wheels are off, let's see how we do. We just stole 6 bagels and 100 packets of sugar from the Comfort Inn in Harpers Ferry, WV to supplement our food stock. I think we're off to a pretty good start.
Saturday, July 18, 2009
A New Day
The morning sun not only helped to dry our clothes, it dried our eyes and warmed our hearts. The ground was still damp, but the blue sky promised a beautiful day. So many people have unabashedly volunteered the fact that a trip such as this will put a monumental strain on our relationship. Well, that is true. We spend long, hard days together oftentimes not seeing another soul except in passing. At night, we are worn out and just want to sleep, but we have to cook, filter water, set up the tent, blow up the sleeping pads, hang the food in a tree, etc. We eat far less than we might at home even though we are putting in longer and harder days physically than we would normally. When it's dark, cold, and rainy all day it does not do a lot for our moods. In fact, as you might imagine, that extra weight can be the straw that breaks the camel's back. But that is the battle. No one is forcing us to do what we are doing. It actually sounds crazy when I describe it this way - it is hell; it totally sucks for most of the day at which point it only sucks a little. On the other hand though, it is quite the adventure. We are learning things about each other. We are pushing greater distances under harder circumstances than we ever imagined that we could do. We've met some very interesting people along the way; we've encountered nature uninhibited. We are not seeing it on a screen, there is not a plaque telling us what to look at - there is no glass or fence to protect us. We've equipped ourselves to meet every challenge. When we realize we've come up short, we put our minds together, we come up with a solution. Every time.
It's true. We have some of the comforts of home along with us. But, it is not comfortable. We are surviving - thriving, in fact. We have been away from home for eighteen days. We are changing physically, growing stronger. We are changing mentally as well. Each day allows for almost uninterrupted introspection made possible by lack of almost everything except time. I can look at myself and see these new things. When I look at Hannah, I see she has changed as well.
From our first hike together until now, I can say with certainty that Hannah has gained physical strength. She is able to walk longer hours and more miles. Mentally she has incredible persistence. Those long hours and long miles wear the both of us thin, but she does not stop. She pushes on until we are in camp, and all the tasks have been complete. I think sometimes she surprises herself with what she can do. However, I can tell that this strength has always been with her. Academically, she knows she possess superior skill. She continues to prove that. Now, she is getting an opportunity to push herself physically, and she still excels. I did not need convincing that she is an amazing person. I hope she sees it in herself.
Today was a new day, and it felt good to be alive.
Pinefield Hut - Criminal Plan
So these people were back, arguing with each other through the night. We stole their books. They were in the tent, and there was no good way to get them back to their owners. There was only one person that knew that we were in the tents; this big, white-bearded man sleeping in a hammock named Boyd. We knew that he wouldn't say anything because he thought these people were 'tards as well. These were our options.
High Risk:
Sneak back to their tent in the middle of the night, after they had stopped arguing and return their books into their tent, or just outside. At this point, we didn't think they noticed that the books were gone. If they noticed them outside the tent, they would have known something was up.
Medium Risk:
Leave our tent in the middle of the night. Place them in the other empty tent and blame it on the people that weren't even there. It would look like their tent was broken into, but not by us. The downside to this is that they would likely also notice that we were outside because our tent was in proximity to theirs.
Low Risk:
Blame someone else.
Score.
In the morning, we packed our things as normal and I placed the books in my pack. We walked down the hill to the shelter. At 6:30 in the morning, Boyd had packed up and left. We never saw him again. At the shelter, Troop 14 was hanging around. It started raining, and it was getting really dark. No matter what happened, today was going to be a bad day. The mystery people were still fast sleep in their tents. Also in the shelter was Pat, a nice man from Alabama that was going from GA to Harpers Ferry where I now type. (I may have mentioned Pat before. We met him coming up from the road in Rockfish Gap. We stayed with him every night from the entrance of Shenandoah to almost the terminal end. He started having knee problems, and was getting into camp later and later each night. We heard that he dropped off the Trail in Luray, VA just short of the end of the park. Hopefully, with a little rest, he will be able to get back onto his goal). Also in the shelter, was a bearded man who was very nice. A thru-hiker whose name we never learned. At 8:30 Troop 14 departed on schedule leaving just 4 of us in the shelter plus the two sleeping idiots on the hill. Pat and the thru-hiker talked, and Hannah distracted everyone (accidentally on purpose). She stated that she needed to go to the privy. As Pat and the thru-hiker looked to see where she was going, I slipped the books out of my pack (already open when Hannah went to get the toilet paper) and placed them on the wall of the shelter next to the register.
All Shelters have a register where anyone staying the night can sign and say anything they wish. These registers are often kept as a trail record at the Appalachian Trail Club Headquarters for the particular club that maintains that section of trail. Next to these registers, hikers will leave items of particular use to those that will come after them. "Trail Magic" refers to any items that are found on the trail that are left as anonymous gifts to hikers. For instance, strictly utilitarian trail magic might include Knorr Sides (formerly Lipton) which a hiker might pack normally. We sure do. They are delicious. More extravagant things are donuts, soda, beer, or even books!! Well, sitting next to the register were two BOOKS by Bill Bryson. As Hannah came back, the thru-hiker started looking around the shelter for some magic. He discovered the books in the corner and started reading one of them. At this point, we decided to leave just because our time had come. The people on the hill never awoke and never confronted anyone. If they came down and asked the thru-hiker what he was doing with their books I imagine he would have said, "I don't know. They were just sitting right over there." It was the perfect crime. Perfect.
What was not perfect was the weather. As I mentioned, it was raining. The forecast for that day called for "scattered showers." The rain decided to scatter and settle right over where we were hiking. Mist rolled in, and my glasses were fogging so bad that visibility was limited to about 20 feet, or less for me. Those who were more visually inclined ( Hannah ) were asked to lead. I kept fearing that there would be some large animal (bear, especially bear with cubs) that I would fail to see. With Hannah in the lead, I felt much better. Well, there was this time when I had to tell her to stop because she almost walked into a deer (deer in SNP are shameless), but I digress.
I was wearing a rain jacket and rain pants. My pack was covered in nylon. My glasses were wet and foggy, and so was the trail. My shoes soaked through in the first twenty minutes, and it was warm. As I continued to walk, I started to sweat. Soon it didn't really matter that I was wearing rain clothes because they were just as wet inside as they were outside. We just had to keep trekking. It was meant to be a long day, but with the rain, it felt like an eternity. By the halfway point, my feet were all wrinkly and white. They burned like they never have before. My skin was tender and ripped easily. Every step was a chore. I was sweating, but I was cold. The biggest reward of the day was to get to camp, pitch a tent in the mud and crawl into a likely wet sleeping bag. I can't say that my mood was good.
The camps kept getting smaller and smaller, and the tent sites fewer and fewer. As we continued hiking, we were joined by more people who competed for these sites. Luckily, only Troop 14 had beat us, so we selected our sites, pitched the tent in record time, and got in. The sleeping bags were dry and so was the inside of the tent. We fell fast asleep for the next two hours. I was awakened by the sounds of neighbors on each side setting up their tents.
The rain had stopped, but it was still a miserable situation to be in. Since it was about dinner time, I thought that Hannah would like to get up as well. I started rubbing her arm and stroking her face. It seemed like it would be a pleasant thing to wake up to, but this was not the case. She sharply remarked that I was being annoying and that I should immediately stop. As she woke up, she was pissed that I wasn't doing anything and that I interrupted her repose. Well, to make a long story short, she was annoyed at me and my time prioritization skills (or lack thereof in her mind). We made dinner by the shelter, but it was awkward because we weren't really talking to those who were there or to each other. The bear bag was hung and we decided to go back to our tent. We talked things over for a while and came to some conclusions. I woke Hannah up with good intentions. If I nap too long in the afternoon, I can never get back to sleep. Since Hannah does not have this problem, I should let her nap as long as she needs. She wakes up faster than I do, it seems. If there is something that needs to be done, I should wait until I'm ready and then let her know. We do things in a different order, but we both meet deadlines. We have to sometimes agree to disagree on the order upon which these things should be done. This is where Hannah gets annoyed with me most. I can do nothing about this, since, in the end, everything does indeed get done. Well, we had this circular and awkward conversation until about nightfall. We each turned over, and I think Hannah dozed off. However, my mind had thousands of thoughts going through it. I hated the rain and not being dry. I missed the comforts of home and my family. I thought of the sacrifices that my parents made to get me what I have. I thought about my social life and how I've changed in some ways, but in others have remained exactly the same. It all hit me at once, and I cried myself to sleep.
ATC in Harpers Ferry
Well, there will be more updates as the day goes on since we do have internet access at the hotel. However, I wanted to say this. We are sitting in the Appalachian Trail Conservancy Hikers Lounge. They offer free internet access, cold drinks (for a donation) all kinds of ATC souvenir crap which I'm probably going to buy and send home : ), a couch, and a large book with pictures of all the hikers that have passed through here over the years. When we leave, we shall leave a part of ourselves and forever be a part of the history of the AT. Awww.
Talk to all y'all later.
Saturday, July 11, 2009
Zoning on the Trail
AJ's mention of zoing out on the trail inspired me though. I too, am a trail zoner. Now that I am at least reasonably used to the rigors of walking up and down mountains all day, I have some space in my head to do more than breathe loudly and rapidly.
On the uphill sections, I always get a short bit of music stuck in my head which I repeat, in time with my breathing, like an inescapable mantra. The content is widely varied. I have had God Rest Ye Merry Gentleman, the kids song that goes "Mares eat oats and does eat oats and little lambs eat ivy. A kid will eat ivy too, Wouldn't you?," and various pop songs, which have temporarily eluded my memory.
On the flats and downhils, however, I think about all sorts of things. Often times I think about what it would be like to live in New York City. Will I be able to do laundry in the basement of my building, or do they not do that over there? What food would I buy? Would I buy it online at Freshdirect.com? Maybe I could put it in my pack and walk through the busy streets of NYC carrying all my groceries like a hiker! What shoes will I wear? Will I start wearing fancy clothes? Could I realistically save money by taking extra condiment packets and stuffing my pockets with toilet paper when opportunities present themselves? (Condiment packets and toilet paper are hot commodities on the trail, you see). These thoughts have led to many miles of satisfying plans and wonderings.
The final category of my thoughts are far flung what-if scenarios. After the incidents with the annoying sections hiker "bros" and their SUV (which left me furious for a largly unknown reason, especially since I usually feel sad or annoyed in situations that leave others angry) I spent a full afternoon fantasizing about finding them at the next shelter site, giving them a piece of my mind (with many alternate scripts) and having one of them punch me in the face, possibly knocking out one of my teeth or breaking my jaw. This turn of events would unleash two exciting things to think about: AJ trying to control the bleeding in the woods, and my trip to the hospital via Virginia ambulance and the possibility of a later court case over the assault. I realize that this all sounds incredibly stupid and far fetched now, but on the trail it was truly absorbing. We never saw the Bros again, though. And I bet I wouldn't have said anything to them if we had. And even if I had said something to them (in my head it was along the lines of "Excuse me sir? Could you do me a favor?" "Sure" "Please be quiet and have some respect for the fact that some of us have a long WALK planned for tomorrow") I am pretty sure that they wouldn't have hit me.
So, perhaps the trail is making me crazy, but it is often satisfying to allow my mind to wander, even if it does tend to revert back to food or completely improbable events. The one problem with my coping mechanism is that I walk on auto pilot. I have come within three feet of walking into an oncoming hiker and just about walked past a deer standing fewer than 10 feet off the trail (deer are very easy to see, and there is no excuse for not noticing one so close by, especially since they walk and eat very loudly). A bear or rattlesnake would be much easier to miss, especially for the mentally absent, and for this reason, I try to keep myself much more focused on my surroundings whenever I'm walking in front.
Day 5
We had two climbs today that we would normally have called strenuous. At the end, however, something happened. We started climbing and we kept climbing until we reached the summit. Then, we walked down the other side. We approached our second mountain, and did the same thing. Could this mean that we are getting in shape. Hells yes!
Well, again, honestly, I don't remember the journey into the shelter. I zoned. Saw some beautiful vistas, took some pictures, had songs stuck on my head, blah, blah, blah. When we got to the shelter, the boy scouts were already there. The tent sites were on top of the hill. All of them were taken except for one. We learned, later, that the permits on the other two tent sites were expired. One in mid June, and the other at the end of June. It seemed that these people had just abandoned all their stuff. It was nice stuff too! Well, curiosity got the best of me. I assumed that we would find corpses in these tents. Who just leaves a $400 tent in the woods? I approaced the first one with my treking pole and knocked on the side. No answer. I looked at the permit. It expired 6/10/09. It was a couple from Florida. Their primary method of travel was "White Cadillac." Their entrance site was "Gravel." I didn't see the white Cadillac parked anywhere. I unzipped the tent. Through the mesh, I saw two figures lying next to each other. "Shit," I thought. "Dead people."
But, then I unzipped the mesh and saw two Kelty packs, fully loaded next to each other. Very interesting. I went to the next tent. An identical North Face tent. This tag expired only a few days before. This was another couple from Florida. They were also travelling by white Cadillac (!) Where were all these Cadillacs?! Anyway, this one got me really nervous. There were flies all over the top, under the rainfly, everywhere. I knocked again. No answer. I unzipped the tent. I again saw two figures, larger this time.
"Shit," I thought. "More dead people."
I unzipped the mesh and saw two sleeping bags lying next to each other, clothes underneath. No bodies. There were two books inside, both by Bill Bryson, The Lost Continent, and A Short History of Nerly Everything. I took both. I went to the other tent and decided to rifle through the other packs to see if there was anything good inside. I figured these people have to be dead somewhere based on what I found:
No food in the tent, on the bear poles or anywhere on site
No water or water containers
No maps
1 t-shirt
2 camp pillows
1 pair of boxers
1 pair of cotton pajamas
AquaMira for purifying the water they couldn't carry
2 Mosquito netting hats
2 Mosquito nets
18 tent stakes in original packaging
1 compass in original packaging
Deodorant
Well, there was absolutely nothing I wanted, so I went back to the tent. I read the Lost Continent out loud to Hannah as deer came close and ate by our camp. Night came and we went to sleep. At about 10pm, there was a commotion in the camp. This older couple came up the hill clanging a metal pot, arguing.
"Try and keep up with me goddamnit!"
"How can I keep up with you when I don't have a light?"
"Well, you could try walking faster."
"I can't see!"
"Move!"
"I can't see a damn thing."
And on and on and on...
It was them. We stole the books of these terribly inept people, and they were back! They continued to argue amongst themselves in whisper tones, and Hannah and I tried to figure out what to do with the books. Surely they would know it was us. There were only 12 other people nearby, but we were closest. We went to sleep and were prepared to enact our master criminal plan on the morning of day 6.
Day 4
The boys scouts started out as we were making breakfast. We heard they were going on the the same shelter as we planned. Pat, the man we met on the trail the day before, was also trying to make it there, but he wasn't used to the 13 mile days, and was concerned that he couldn't make it.
While hiking I totally zone. I get random songs stuck in my head for hours. In fact, I don't remember most of this day. I do recall that my mental playlist was the following:
Jerusalem by William Blake (an English Patriotic Anthem)
I've Been Working on the Railroad (A popular children's classic)
Wachet Auf, ruft uns die Stimme (Chorale) by J.S. Bach (a nerdy organist's classic)
I Used to Get High by the John Butler Trio (while climbing high up a mountain, get it?)
Somehow, we caught up to the boy scouts near the end of the day. We started out way after them. How was this possible? Well, we decided to be competitive. Our goal was to get to camp as fast as we could, set up shelter, and make it look easy. We ran down the mountain, and up another one, and set up our tent all before the final boy scout made it. What did we prove? Nothing at all. But it felt good.
Day 3
We awoke to find that you need exactly five pounds of ice to keep 1/2 pound bologna, 1/2 tomato, and cheese spread cold for the evening. In the overnight, a new couple had pitched a tent close to ours. We went over to have breakfast with them. Their collective trail name was French Blah Blah Blah. "Well, we talk a lot. And we are French. So...yeah." They were actually really nice, but they made me feel bad. They were being typically French. They had brick oven fired multi-grain bread, Nutella, sprouts, and other healthy things. We had fake cheese and bologna... C'est la vie. Anyway, Dorian, as the guy was called just happened to have a list of all the shuttle people in the Waynesboro area. I gave one a call. Roy said he would meet us in 20 minutes. That was easy!
I sat on the curb and watched cars pass by. It seems that you can tell the hikers from the non-hikers even by the vehicles that they drive. Hmm. Old Ford Ranger. That's not a hiker. Chevy Suburban. Nope. Not a hiker. Dodge Caravan. Not a hiker. I see a Subaru wagon a mile down the road. That's Roy! It sure was. Roy gave us a ride directly to the trail and then drove away to continue on with his day. What a great service!
We walked up the hill to find an older gentleman walking down. We learned that he had started the trail at Amicalola Springs in Georgia and was headed to Harper's Ferry. For the next several days, we had the same schedule of shelters, so we imagined that we would get to know him a little better. We were both looking for the self-registration kiosk where we were to get our backcountry camping permits as required by the Department of the Interior. The permit wanted to know the following.
Name:
Address:
Emergency Contact Information:
Anticipated Shelters and nights spent at each:
Primary method of Travel: (On the hiking only trail)
Number of stock or pack animals:
Number of Watercraft:
If only I knew beforehand that I could have brought my donkey and speedboat...
In the middle of the day, we descended a steep slope and had a rest at the side of Skyline Drive. Mostly every car that passed waved at us. It was nice to be famous. As we were sitting there playing with slugs, there was quite a commotion on the trail behind us. A group of about 10 guys wearing kilts came down the hill, apologized three times each for disturbing us and then continued on their way. We assumed this meant that there would be no room in the shelter when we got to it.
We got over the top of Calf Mountain and arrived at the shelter which was 0.3mi off the trail. There were two men and a dog, plus all the kilted men who turned out to be Eagle Scouts (of course). We made our tent and felt safe, actually, that there were so many people around. Dinner was eaten and morning followed. The fourth day.
Day Two
The three of us spent the night in the shelter. At about 7am, there was another rustle in the shelter. Two people had dropped in and were looking for the register. Without any regard for the three sleeping people, they began to read aloud the shelter register and add their own comments. After about 45 minutes of this, they went on their merry way. It seemed like a pretty good time to get up. Well, Hannah already described the rest of the day. Centrail Virginia maps have very little to do with what actually exists on the trail. It always makes for an interesting day. I mentally prepared for an immediate 1,000 foot ascent in less than a mile only to ascent 500 feet in about the same distance and walk on a plateau. In a sense it was nice, but I spent the whole morning dreading nothing.
Our trail guide stated that there were restaurants on the trail as well as lodging and groceries about 4 miles away. Everything in the vicinity of the trail was abandoned and boarded up. However, the parking lots in front of all these buildings were nearly full. We saw three guys in one corner, and then a man and woman over at the other side. The old men looked creepy, and I thought the other car looked like an undercover cruiser so we went to talk to them. There was a guy in his early to mid-20s and an older lady wearing a navy blazer and a pistol. They immediately struck up a conversation with us and offered to take us into town. We had worried about hitch hiking, but as it turns out, people just volunteer to take us places, so it didn't matter. Along the way, the guy driving mentioned that he didn't want to take us close to the Lutheran Church where there was a hiker hostel because the U.S. Marshall was taking down a fugitive in the area, but he would be happy to take us to the Chinese Buffet (see Hannah's post). He also assured us that we were in no danger. Awesome! Actually, the prospect of danger didn't hit me. I had my mind set on the sushi.
After we had our lunch, surprisingly, we were still able to walk. We certainly ate more that the $7.15 that the buffet cost us. The registers said that if we found Grace Lutheran Church, they would put us up for the night. The Marshall said that we just needed to take a left and we would see it. Well, we found the Unitarian Church, First Baptist Church, St. John's Catholic Church, St. Mark's Methodist Church, Bethany Lutheran Church, the Church of Latter Day Saints, and Westminster Presbyterian, nut no Grace Lutheran. Knowing that it was a Lutheran Church we were looking for, we decided to knock on Bethany's door thinking that one Lutheran could point us in the direction of another. The words "Seek and ye shall find" was written on the sign out front. The continuation of that verse is "knock and the door shall be opened for you." So we knocked. The secretary looked out the window and waved at us. So, we knocked again, and nothing happened. Somebody dropped the ball. Anyway, around the corner, there was a funeral home with a bunch of suited men hanging around the back door. I imagined that a funeral director must know where all the churches are. He did, of course, and gave us directions. We were on the right path, but didn't go quite far enough. This Lutheran church was also locked tight, but we found an open door and let ourselves in. The sky was getting cloudy, and things didn't look good. After several minutes, we finally drew the attention of someone who told us that the hiker hostel just ended a few days ago. Apparently, these people are charitable to hikers for four weeks a year. The rest of the time, they would like to invite all hikers to go screw themselves. The heavens opened up, and the rain fell in sheets from the sky. We put our pack covers and rain gear on and headed for the YMCA--the other place mentioned in the shelter register.
The Waynesboro YMCA has a field across the street where they allow hikers to pitch their tents and stay for up to two nights. The also, for no charge, open up their locker room (showers!). Well, we pitched our tent in the field, threw our packs in, and took care of priority 1. We went to the library to check our e-mail and update the blog...
Afterwards, we took a shower. I predicted, having other YMCA experience, that the shower would be a large room with several showerheads. Hannah said I was crazy. This is modern America. They will, of course, have shower stalls. We were both right. However, I had to deal with the creepy guy in the big room of showerheads, while Hannah had a lovely, luxurious shower stall. Well, I entered the locker room and went into the shower area. Looking at me, there was a naked man creepily smiling at me. I decided to take a side trip to the bathroom. He finished his shower and stood just outside my stall drying off far longer than is reasonably necessary. I grew tired of waiting, so I emerged. Again, he was just standing there, creepily looking at me, towel draped around his shoulder still naked as the day he was born. Thankfully, he left when I got to the showers. The shower, I will admit felt really good. I took my time because it was uncertain when I would be able to indulge in this way again. I finished up and went around the corner where this man was still naked. Gross. I dressed and left.
Afterwards, Hannah and I went to Kroger Supermarket where you can buy your Beer, Wine, and Fireworks in the same aisle. There are reasons to like Virginia after all. Since we had nothing to do, and nothing really to buy, we decided to walk the aisles and look at the food that Virginians eat. It doesn't sound exciting, but let me tell you, it was wonderful. We decided that we would need dinner, so we picked out the worst things we could think of. We got some hoagie rolls, a pound of bologna, Frito Lay Cheese spread, a tomato for good health, pork rinds, 2 liters of Cherry Coke, and 5 pounds of ice. We ate half for dinner and half for breakfast the next morning. The ice was used to make a "refrigerator" in the vestibule of the tent to keep everything nice and fresh. I'm telling ya. I feel like MacGyver already.
Day One Continued
Friday, July 10, 2009
Library closing
stay tuned.
Dude! There's like a deer or skunk over there, bro.
We arrived at the Rock Springs Shelter later in the evening after a relatively strenuous day of hiking--more than 14 miles. More than an hour later, these two guys walk in, chatting to each other. This didn't seem that unusual. The proceeded up the hill and selected a tent site directly next to ours. For almost the next hour, they deliberated about how their poles were supposed to fit together. Clearly (hopefully?) this was their first night in the woods. After that fiasco, they went down to the water source and filled some containers (I'm not sure why they did this--see below). For almost an hour they discussed the items that should go in the bear bag. The conversation was like this:
"Dude, do you think these candy bars should go in the bear bag, bro?"
"Yeah, dude. I think all food needs to go in."
"Cool, man. What about this Mountain Dew."
"Ummmm. Yeah. Probably. I mean. I guess."
"Oh. Righteous, man. Yeah."
"What about the tooth paste, man?"
"Yeah. I guess anything that's food or smells should go in the bear bag..."
It was 45 minutes of this. No joke.
The other one went away for a little and came back to his friend sipping water.
"Dude, you didn't drink any of that water. did you."
"Oh no bro, I never drink that stuff." (as he sipped from his Poland Spring bottle.)
Well, then into the night they kept talking back and forth. Apparently they were salesmen that were about to close a deal. They spoke about such interesting things as smelly farts and girlfriends and stuff. When the ladies came near, one stated that he was an Eagle Scout. I'm wondering if he knew there was a troop of Eagle Scouts staying in the shelter just below. Anyway, they went on talking loudly back and forth to each other well past when it was decent. Throughout the night, one kept rapping on the other's tent to tell him to stop snoring. Very early in the morning, I finally went to sleep. The next thing I knew, my eyes were open, and it was light. I could hear these guys rustling around and tearing down their camp. I assumed that it was very early. Turns out it was only six, so I went back to sleep. Upon finally waking, they were just leaving. We tore down our stuff, made coffee, ate breakfast, and then set out on our hike almost an hour and a half after these guys. We caught up to and passed them within the hour. So much for a head start.
A little way downb the trail, we came to the Skyland service area, and stopped for some coffee. We met some thru-hikers that we had come to know, and we all talked about how obnoxious these guys were. Then who should come walking in. Yes. It was them. They ignored all of us. Got their coffee, walked across the parking lot. The last we heard from them was:
"Dude. You ready to do the next 20 miles?"
"Yeah, totally man."
They then got into their SUV and drove away. Their hike was 4.6 miles long. They were true outdoorsmen. I have only one thing to say to them:
Fuck you, bro.
The library will be closing in 15 minutes
We are in the Front Royal library. As May said, we've been living it up here as we recover from over a hundred miles walked in 10 days with zero days off. Today we went to another Chinese buffet (it was not Mings, but still good, esp since we had May and a Thru hiker named Two Lions to keep us company) and K Mart.
We've been doing a lot of laundry in the sink of our hotel room, and the color of the water is pretty nasty. AJ's leg appears to be on the mend, and my feet are quickly regrowing the skin that they lost.
On Sunday, Erna will come down from her fancy DC internship and bring us back into the park so that we can complete the last 20 miles of the Shenendoahs before continuing on. I think it will be really hard the first day back after this longish rest, but, as there is not all that much to do in Front Royal, I bet it will be good to get back to the trail.
My computer keeps yelling at me that it will log me off at any second, which is making it very difficult for me to write a good update. Perhaps AJ will have done better. Or maybe we will come back here tomorrow. It's hard to say.
The short story is: we're alive and happy, we're eating a lot of food, and we're making progress. Life is good.
Thursday, July 9, 2009
Front Royal and Injuries!
I am going to visit them tomorrow! And they are going to update soon form the library.
(: !!!!
Direct from Hannah:
They also saw a bear! Their third bear sighting! There were apparently baby bears playing in the trees. Hannah reports it as cute. She also reports that they are going to eat a pizza tonight: Mushrooms, peppers, onions, olives, sausage and pepperoni. She is definitely missing out on fresh fruit and vegetables. She has just bought two six-packs of beer, a pound of cherries and a lot of other things, as well. And tomorrow we are going to eat at the China Buffet!
Wednesday, July 1, 2009
On the trail again
We have survived day 1, and the outlook for day 2 is looking good.
We started about 20 miles south of where planned to begin, which turned out to make a very long first day's walk for us--over 14 miles, or as long as anything we'd ever done before, and with full packs. Thanks to Linda and Lincoln, who kindly drove an hour each way to pick us up at the bus stop in Charlottesville and gave us food, bed, and shower before dropping us on the trail with full bellies, the first five miles felt great. Eventually, however I started struggle, though AJ took it all in stride. My problems were caused mainly because of the following occurances:
a. started seeing bears (AJ saw two, of which I caught a glimpse of the second)
b. got really tired. My feet hurt a lot, my hamstrings felt very tight or pulled, and just wanted to be there
c. realized that our map had very little to do with the actual trail in front of us. According to the map, the final six miles of our hike were downhill. This was not the case.
We made it in the end though, and boy was I happy. We stayed in the shelter, ate mac & cheese with tuna, and I cuddled into my sleeping bag while AJ read to me from the shelter register. People write some absolutely hilarious things in them. This register was deemed a memorial register, since there was a marble bench at the campsite in honor of a hiker who had died on the Pacific Crest Trail (it appears that LOTS of people die there, as there is no water. I will never hike that trail). There were lots of entries in memory of lost or broken camping gear, lost pets and family members, and my personal favorite, "in memory of all the great sex I could have been having with my girlfriend if I had not decided to do this hike."
As we were drifting off to sleep (at the late hour of 9pm) another hiker joined us. We read later that he had hiked 29.5 miles that day. Honsestly, I don't know how that is possible. It would be pretty amazing to get into such good shape! His feet looked pretty gross though... black toenails, etc.
According to our schedule, we would have had a generally uphill 11 mile day today, which I was not looking forward to, especially since it was supposed to start off with a 1000 foot ascent in less than a mile. As it turned out, that ascent didn't really exist, it was just another (way nicer) example of how little our maps have to do with the current location of the trail.
In the register, lots of people talked about going to Ming Garden, a Chinese/Sushi/Everything buffet. When we got to Rockfish gap, we caught a ride for 5 miles into town and arrived in Ming's, which can only be described as paradise. We ate and ate and ate. So good. Oh man, it was so good. And, only $7.15 for all you can eat lunch. Incredible. Ming's will have a special place in my heart for a long time to come.
We also heard that there was an Evangelical Lutheran Church in town where we could stay the night, and even possibly receive further sustanance. However, when we got there (after an extended search) they would not have us. They said that the hosel was "last week" and ended on Sunday. So, I guess I'm not going to be converted to being a Lutheran after all. The YMCA is going to let us shower there for free, which is awesome, and they'll let us spend the night too, but in a field, rather than inside. It's been raining and thundering/lightninging off and on all afternoon, so perhaps it will be an interesting night. If it gets really bad, there's a 24 hour grocery store where we can possibly hang out.
Because of our stop, we are officially 1 day behind our itinerary (people with our itinerary (Mom) should take note). This also means another nice short day tomorrow, only 7 miles, by which time we will be all recovered and ready to speed through Shenendoah National Park.
So, in summary, out trip has been full of ups and downs, some expected and some unexpected, just like the trail.
The First Few Days
I am writing to you from the Waynesboro, VA Public Library! Let me tell you some stories.
A few days before the hike:
As some of you may know, I needed to pack all my things and move from my home in Sunderland leaving me officially homeless today. Moving sucks! As soon as my bed was packed away, I ended up making a little place for myself in the corner with all my soft items. It was actually comfortble, believe it or not. It was certainly more comfortable than just having the mattress on the floor (which might be a good indication that it's time to get a new mattress). I have to thank my parents for letting me store most of my crap in my old room. Also to CJ, my now former housemate, Hannah's parents, and my grandparents for also letting me put various items, both small and large in their houses for storage.
On the last day at home, there was so much to do. The final boxes were packed and the empty rooms showed more dust that I thought possible. Hannah helped me with the cleaning, which was a huge help. In the afternoon, I dropped my car off at my parents and they gave me a ride back to my big empty house. I sat on the deck taking a final look at the Mount Toby range. The sun was beginning to set. The fields glowed yellow, and the hills were a deep shade of blue. This was always my favorite time of the day here. The deck was on the east side, so it was in the shade while the sun illuminated everything else. Here I waited for Hannah to pick me. When she arrived, we did a final walkthough of the house, and my eyes were getting a little moist. This was my "paramedic house." I graduated college just before I moved in, and contemplated being a paramedic when I first got there. I enrolled, took all my lectures, did my clinical and field rotations while living there. My official certification marked my final days. I will miss so many things about it, but as they say - onto bigger and better things.
Leaving Massachusetts:
The Appalachian Trail Conservancy publishes a lits of AT Shuttles - volunteers along the length of the trail that will bring hikers from transportation hubs to the nearest trail head. Contacting multiple people did not work out for us, as they all seemed to be uninterested in providing any type of shuttle service...
There was hope, however. Using her biology connections, Hannah was able to get in contact with a family friend who has a sister who lives in central Virginia (conveniently) a short distance from the trail. She volunteered to meet us at the bus station, take us to her home, and drive us to the trail the next day! The only thing in our way was getting to centrail Virginia.
We knew we couldn't easily take a plane. With the items we needed to take (poles with sharp points, knives, preesurized fuel, lighters and matches, pepper spray, and more than 4oz of water...) we would have immediately been considered terrorists. The train sounded nice but was super expensive (plane was cheaper), and the bus sounded the least fun. As it turned out, the train technically went faster, but had longer layovers in NYC and DC. The bus went to the same places and, in the end, got to the Charlottesville station (our destination) at the exact same time. Greyhound was offering a 50% off companion fare so the trip was super cheap. However, when we were finally able to reserve the tickets, the companion fare conveniently disappeared. C'est la vie.
Last Minute Shopping:
What's the best thing to do when you are moving and soon leaving on a long trip? Go to Maine! Hannah called me quite energetically on Saturday morning and asked if I wanted to go to the beach (Hampton) and then to L.L. Bean so she could get a new pack (hers ripped in the front on our first trip). I never refuse such proposals, so we left about noon. I was a beautiful, sunny, hot, humid day...in western Massachusetts. In New Hampshire, it was sixty degrees, cloudy, and super cloudy/misty at the water. We browsed the boardwalk briefly, walked the beach despite the weather, and had lunch before moving on to Maine. Apparently, L.L. Bean has a summer concert series. That night there was a jazz band that I didn't recognize (I'm not sophisticated enough to appreciate jazz...) but such names as Patty Loveless, Blues Traveler, Dar Williams, and The Wallflowers will all be playing free concerts over the summer in case you're interested. You can read about Hannah's new pack below.
The Bus:
Our bus in Springfield was late. Four bus loads of people arrived for our one bus from New York to DC so were we late. We were supposed to have an hour and five minutes in DC before the next bus, but we arrived just five minutes before that bus left...so we still couldn't have any food. We packed snacks, but still, it was a long day of crying children and frustrated adults. I personally don't like traveling by bus... However, we arrived in Charlottesville and were greeted by Linda, our host who took us to the grocery store, and then to her house to stay with her husband Lincoln, and two massive but friendly German Shepards. They have such a nice house set way back in the woods (with a 1.3 mile driveway that includes fording a stream). They fed us that night and awoke early to make us a huge breakfast of scrambled eggs, bacon, bagels, watermelon, and they even picked raspberries for us. We are so grateful to them for not only getting us to the trail, but for taking such good care of us!!
The First Day:
Linda drove us to Reed's Gap, took some pictures, and sent us on our way. The terrain was rockier than I imagined, but generally flat. We met one hiker right away, but he pushed on ahead of us and we never saw him again. We began our ascent of Humpback Mountain and attained an elevation of 3,600 feet. Just off the summit, there were two deer that ran across the trail just in front of me. A few miles later, we were descending more than 1,000 feet into a valley via switchbacks. I was several hundred feet in front of Hannah at this point. I came around the corner, and found a black bear not thirty feet away. It looked up, and immediately ran away. I've always hiked with the fear of bears, but for some reason, I was very calm when I saw the bear. Actually, I was awestruck. It was quite an amazing, powerful creature. Plus, it was doing the best thing--running away from me. 100 yards down the trail, we saw another, larger bear a few hundred feet away. This one also went away from us. It's nice to hear people say that is what bears will do. It's another, way better thing when that's, in fact, what they really do. We walked another 1.5 miles to the Paul C. Wolfe shelter, and set up our camp
Since my time on the computer is about to expire, I will have to end this way. Please forgive my typos.
to be continued